Tartuca (turtle) wins the palio today!

Today was all about the Palio, the famous horse race in Siena, so no paintings today. Siena is divided into 17 contrada. Each year, there is a horse race among the contrada and great honor goes to the winner of the race. The Sienese take it extremely seriously. The pageant preceding the palio was glorious, each contrada parades through the campo (central square, the most beautiful in all of Europe, secondo me) dressed in milirary clothing as it would have been in about the 17th century. I've never seen so many aquiline noses in my life, nor such proud and serious faces. A portrait series would be a lot of fun to do someday. But the pageant, which lasted at least a couple of hours, was magnificent. Just absolutely beautiful with each contrada decked out in its unique, brightly colored clothing and bearing flags of the contrada's insignia.

In the morning, I worked with Pepi, the owner of the villa at which I am staying, on new wine labels for two different wines he produces locally. He may use a couple of the paintings or pictures I've taken as images for the labels. In exchange, I insist on example bottles of his wine with the label. I lunched with the Pepi family, we had wines and food specific to the Orvieto region. In Italian, la Signora asked "Do you have friends in Siena?" I said, "No." She replied, "Com'e no! Tu hai noi! Siamo tuoi amici!" Allora, I have friends in Siena.

In the afternoon, Pepi's grandkid and her friend escorted me to witness a horse being blessed in the Onda contrada's church, prior to the race. (Onda means wave,and its mascot is a dolphin.) But I repeat, the horse was brought into the church where it was blessed it. Too cool. After the horse was led out, the contrada lustily sang the contrada's song, at least twice, before I left for the main campo.

Here's today's image, a lonely sunflower, the first to bloom. Somehow I empathized with it. I am alone here in this strange and beautiful culture and country, as is the lone flower in its field. Yet with established friends here now, I am connected, a part of the field around me.

Driving through France today

I'm on my way to Siena, Italy for a three week stay to do intensive painting and photography. I have all of my oil painting gear, my bicycle, and a car and will be exploring the landscape and famous light in Tuscany to see how it affects my artwork. Today I bought a super watercolor set, cotton paper, and some great watercolor brushes so that I can better lay down some color sketches of the landscape. The palio figures prominently in my plans as well.

My choice of coming to Siena has nothing at all to do with the wine and food available here. No, prosciutto, olive oil, and pizza have had no bearing on my plans at all.

I'll be staying with my friend Leonardo and his wife in their nice house just outside of Siena. Look here for regular updates of the sketches and paintings from bella Italia!

Tamara in front of the Villa Avvenire with Lulu

While in Siena, we stayed with our friends Brian, Julia, Jeff, and Kristen at the Villa Avvenire just outside the ciy walls. The hosts, Signor and Signora Pepi, were as delightful as their dog, Lulu, friendly. The Villa Avvenire was built in the 1400s, but we stayed in the modern wing built in the 1700s. Pictured is Tamara with Lulu - Lulu is looking sad because we are leaving for the day.

Signor Pepi is a delightful host, and enjoys cooking for the beauty of it. He made us one of the best dishes I've ever eaten, venison prepared in the Tuscan style. He obtained doe meat from one of his farms - it has to be old doe, young doe does not have the right flavor. He marinated the doe with carrots, other vegetables, and red wine for two days. The doe is then cut into small pieces, sauteed with onion and garlic in olive oil, then stewed for three hours in white wine. It is served with a mashed potato and cheese dish. Awesome, top ten of all time.

Noi vi ringraziamo per il tempo bellisimo alla Villa Avvenire, Signor e Signora Pepi! (We are so grateful for the beautiful time at the Villa Avvenire, Signor and Signora Pepi!)

Siena water supply

Ever the water resources engineer....

The Sienese were careful to have numerous sources of water inside the city walls for times of siege. They captured rainwater in cisterns, sunk wells, and created public access at springs. The pictures here show one of these ancient public access points, where people could obtain drinking water for everyday use.